If there’s one word that most people associate with older Mercedes, it’s “diesel.” A few years ago I owned a 1980 450SL convertible. During the 1970s, the 450SL was nearly everyone’s dream sports car. I’d get offended about once a month when someone would ask if me if my car was a diesel. Sometimes I shoot back: Do you really think they’d put a diesel in a sports car?
All these conversations just show my own ignorance. The fact is, diesels are no longer the slow, smelly, noisy, clunky oil burners that they used to be. And yes, they really do put a diesel in a sports car. You can can even buy an SL400 CDI in Europe. If it hadn’t been for General Motors ruining the public’s perception of diesel motors, we’d probably all be driving diesels today. Modern turbodiesels — like the ones available in the E-class — often outperform gas (petrol to you Brits!) engines of the same size!
If you’ve never driven a turbodiesel, you’re in for a treat. Most passenger car engines today are designed for maximum horsepower at the expense of torque. Torque is what accelerates your car, not horsepower. Diesel engines build most of their torque at low RPMs, whereas gas engines must be wound out to get moving in a hurry. The difference between diesel and gas engines is like the difference between tractor engines and weed whacker engines.
In a turbodiesel, the feeling of acceleration is like the feeling of taking off in a jet airplane. The car builds speed like it’s attached to a giant rubber band. Just a little squeeze of the accelerator pedal is all it takes to shoot forward. To get the same response out of a gas engine, you’d have to nearly floor it.
Turbodiesels offer better gas mileage and much better performance in everday driving conditions than gasoline engines. Gas engines are more powerful at high RPM, so they’ll usually win the top speed shootouts. But who spends most of their time near redline?
W210 Diesels
Okay, you’ve sold me on diesels. Can I get one in the W210? Mercedes sold a diesel in the W210 in the U.S. for four years: 1996-1999. During the first two years, 1996 and 1997, the E300 diesel was offered without a turbo. This OM606 engine was carried over from the 1995 W124 E-class. It only produced 134 HP and 155 lb-ft of torque. Without the turbo, acceleration is — to borrow a term from Rolls Royce — adequate. Figure about 11-12 seconds 0 to 60. You won’t beat anyone at the stoplight drag strip. But you won’t get run over on the freeway either. The naturally-aspirated 1996-1997 has plenty of power to cruise on America’s highways as long as you keep it under 100.
In 1998, Mercedes turbocharged the OM606 engine. The extra air from the turbo bumped up the horsepower by 30% to 174 HP and the torque by 57% to 244 lb-ft. 0 to 60 times dropped to about 8 seconds. Remember that the turbo has to spool up to get on boost. A good portion of that 0 to 60 is spent below parking lot speeds, waiting for the turbo to wind up. Once the turbo kicks in and you’re moving, say from 20 MPH on up, I’d expect the E300 Turbodiesel to smoke an E320 and keep up with an E430.
Unlike a gas engine, turbocharging a diesel does not shorten its life. The turbo actually helps the engine by reducing exhaust gas temperatures.
If driven carefully, both turbo and non-turbo diesels should return around 35-36 MPG on the highway and 24-26 MPG in the city.
Diesel Economy
Mythical Fuel Savings
The decision to purchase a diesel W210 should not be made on the basis of fuel savings. The turbodiesels are about $5,000 more expensive used than comparable E320s. To come out ahead financially, you’d first have to recoup through fuel savings your initial $5,000 outlay. The numbers just don’t work out under any reasonable scenario. Let’s make some assumptions:
You’d get 28 MPG on the highway with an E320 gas.
You’d get 35 MPG with an E300 diesel.
You pay $3.15 for a gallon for premium unleaded gasoline.
You pay $2.90 for a gallon for diesel. (Diesel is actually more expensive than premium gas in some parts of the country.)
Under these assumptions, gas for the E320 would cost $0.11 per mile and diesel for the E300 would cost $0.08 per mile. The diesel would reduce your fuel costs by about 3 cents per mile. To simply break even after paying the $5,000 premium for the diesel engine, you’d need to drive the car about 150,000 miles. Assuming you drive 10,000 miles per year, that would take 15 years!
The only factor that could significantly change would be that diesel fuel becomes much cheaper than gasoline in the future. If gas prices go up, or you convert your diesel to run on waste vegetable oil, then buying an E300 for fuel economy might make sense.
Other Ways to Save Money with a Diesel
Better fuel economy alone won’t make the diesel a good buy. But consider that the diesel engine may outlast the gasoline engines — although the odds of you having a major engine problem with a Mercedes gasoline engine are very low. The diesel would probably cost less to maintain. For example, diesels have no spark plugs, coils, ignition wires, etc., and therefore do not need traditional tune-ups. When you combine the fuel savings and potential maintenance/repair savings, the diesel could save you money if you plan to drive the car forever. If this is your plan, make sure you check your car thoroughly for rust before you buy! Otherwise, spend your extra $5,000 on a low mileage, museum-quality gasoline model.
Should I buy the diesel?
The diesel probably won’t be any cheaper to own unless you get a really, really good deal. So if you buy a diesel W210, you should buy it because you like diesels, not because you plan to save money. If you do your own maintenance, diesels are much simpler and easier to work on. As I mentioned before, diesels are enjoyable to drive. Some people (aka gearheads) like the unique diesel clatter, although you won’t hear any of it in the W210.
The Auto Channel: 1998 Mercedes-Benz E300 Turbodiesel Test Drive
Vehicle info and problem particulars:
2000 E430 Sport. Driver's side air blows whatever is outside (i.e., warm/hot). Passenger's side is getting cool, but not as cold as it once did. Slight hissing noise at times behind the vents (i.e., emanating from the engine compartment).
Sensor values:
1 – 92
2 – 102
3 – 92
4 – 86
5 – 92
6 – 198
7 – 16
8 – 141
Error codes:
b1227
b1234
anybody getting any responses ?
I'm in the middle of moving cross-country and will begin addressing
questions once I'm settled back in!
My boyfriend figured out what was wrong with our air conditioner, but I was going to post about our troubles here. I just wanted to say, I think it’s really great what you’re doing. It’s so cool that so many people have responded. You’re very nice!
David- Please help with my 98' E300!? I drive this thing everywhere and I have went 3 weeks without air. Here are the codes:
VALUES
1-32
2-35
3-72
4-71
5-34
6-83
7-24
8-65
CODES
E61 R227
E61 231
E61 232
E61 234
E61 235
E FF
Any help would be greatly appreciated!! I will help you move if you can crack this one. I am driving this thing 1000 miles a week and I am riding in a hot car with hot beer, where would you like me to send it
2001 e320
Sensors
1 – 82
2 – 76
3 – 112
4 – 114
5 – 143
6 – 188
7 – 03
8 – 103
Codes
E61 234
E61 416
E FF
Thank you so much for your help! Help me out and I'll donate to the cause! =)
I released the pressure of my system then recharged with R-134a to about 40psi. The initial read was about 65psi. Can't get anything cold out of my car.
I sure hope you're able to find this post! I'm not sure why it isn't posted on the top/bottom.. It's just floating out here in the middle.. =(
Hi,
Your main problem is a faulty evaporator temperature sensor. It's reporting an implausibly high temperature (#5=143 degrees) which is causing the A/C system to shut down to protect the evaporator core from freezing. The computer does this when it determines that the evap temp sensor is unreliable.
Your refrigerant pressure (#7) looks low. It's hard to say whether your system is adequately charged or not based on pressure alone. Once the compressor is running after replacing that evap temp sensor, you'll have a better idea. Note that you need the compressor engaged in order to charge the system since the (relative) suction from the compressor on the low-side line is needed to draw the refrigerant out of the can.
Blake
thank you so much for your help! i think it's absolutely awesome that you're willing to help out those of us in need! you can expect a few beers from me!!
Hey Blake first, thanks for being such a great resource and money saver, here are my codes:
1-87
2–87
3-85
4-87
5-84
6-136
7-00
8-85
EB1234
EB1241
EFF
Thanks for your help!
Ray,
Looks like your system is empty and needs to be recharged. The
refrigerant pressure sensor is reporting zero pressure. Sometimes this
is caused by a defective sensor, but that happens rarely. Look
through my previous responses for instructions on how to bypass the
pressure sensor and how to reset the codes if you want to give that a
try before recharging.
If your system is empty, the most common source of leak is the receiver-dryer.
Blake
I sent in a question 2 months ago, if you have time could you please check it out and give me some advice. Thanks for any help.
Hey Blake, I have a 1998 E300 TD.
Symptoms are: A tiny bit cold for the first 3-4 minutes, then blows whatever air temp seems to be outside.
First about the faults. I had a bunch of faults that I was able to clear out to a E-FF status with zero showing. A Winter ago I had Firestone replace the Serpentine belt which is where I think the problem might have started. Also checked using my CodeKey ODB reader and no codes thrown.
Here are my error codes, 1st reading is after 3 minutes, 2nd reading after 20 minutes driving to work. These are in Celsius on the left, Fahrenheit on the right in parens:
sensor 1- 37, 36 (98.6, 96.8)
sensor 2- 32, 30 (89.6, 86)
sensor 3- 40, 37 (104, 98.6)
sensor 4- 40, 37 (104, 98.6)
sensor 5- 77, 77 (170.6,170,6)
sensor 6- 37, 95 (98.6, 203)
sensor 7- 08, 08 (bar)
sensor 8- 33, 42 (91.4, 107)
Since sensor 7 reads only 8 bar, so I'm thinking that with no fault codes I might just need a recharge and the problem could be a leak somewhere. A confirmation would help.
Does anyone have a link to the 210 parts numbers for all the sensors?
Thanks in advance,
Jesse
Fairfield, County, Connecticut
Jesse,
In short, your problem is the evaporator temperature sensor (#5). Replace that and you'll be back in business.
Look through my other replies if you are interested in a more comprehensive explanation of why this sensor causes this problem.
Blake
Thanks Blake, I came to the same conclusion last night after adding a can of 134a only to have the compressor blow much colder air for approximately the same short time span of a minute or two,
thanks for your help, donation to the Blake Cameron Wildlife Preservation Fund to follow. :>)
Jesse
Hi Blake,
The E55 has been sitting relatively idle. I have replaced the sensors and had the unit charged. EC light is not on. Air temp sensor in front, even after replacing shows error, though I can read outside temp on instrument cluster.
What's the next step – vacuum leak, head unit, ?
Thanks
John F. Burr, Ph.D.
Continuous Term Lecturer
Krannert School of Management
Purdue University
615 Carrolton Blvd
W. Lafayette, IN 47906
765.404.4114
Mike,
Thanks once again for the beer money. I have good news for you. It looks like all you need is a recharge. None of your error codes are significant. The only one that might make a difference to you is B1231, the engine coolant temperature sensor. That sensor informs the climate control unit when it's appropriate to start blowing (hopefully warm) air after staring the car in the winter.
As for the air conditioner, your refrigerant pressures look good. The vent air is warmer than it should be (40s), but still cool enough (60s) to tell that the A/C is working. Often when the refrigerant is low, you'll hear a hissing noise emanating from behind the center vents and notice a temperature difference between the left and right center vents. A simple recharge should put you back in business. In the interim, you can try using the recirculate button to reduce the temperature of the air being drawn through the AC (assuming the interior is cooler than the outside).
Blake
I have '98 E-320 which gave a problem with the high speed fan motor not comiing on. The blower motor was changed by the dealer a couple of years ago for a hefty sum of $1200. Starting late last year the AC would just not cool. All I am getting is the hot air. I am hesitant to take it to the dealer because the price will vary from $297 (recharge) to may be $4500 (coils replacement). I read your artical and decided to take down the readings and see if could recharge 134a myself. Here are the readings:
#1 30,#2 29, #3 31, #4 31, #5 49, #6 65, #7 01, #8 28.
The error codes are: E61 227, E61 231, E61 233, E61 234, E61 459, E FF, E.
The EC light can be turned off. If you feel that the rfrigerant needs to be recharged, would you let me know the approximate location of the low pressure valve? I have opened the hood andcan see a chrome pipe going from the compressor to the body below the brake fluid cup. This pipe has a valve with a plastic thread cover.
Thanks in anticipation.
SK
I have a '98 E320. Two years ago the high speed blower was replaced by the dealer for a hefty $1200. Late last year, before the Fall, the AC stopped working blowing only hot air. The EC light can be turned off. I was told by the dealer that the recharge will cost me nearly 297 and the worst case scenario is $4500 for changing the coil. I was encouraged to read your article and decided to take down the sensor readiings and the error coses to see if it is indeed just the recharge that is needed. I think I can recharge it myself if I can confirm the location of the low pressure valve. I had looked under the hood and found that the chrome pipe going from the compressor to the dash just below the brake reservoir has a valve with plastic screwed cover.
I have collected the sensor information and the errorcodes per your guidelines. Here they are:
#1 30, #2 29, #3 31, #4 31, #5 49, #6 65, #7 01, #8 28.
The error codes are:
E61 227, E61 231, E61 233, E61 234, E61 459, E FF, E
I will appreciate it if you can put me inthe right directions. Thanks in anticipation.
SK